MAV308DAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed old 'Agitator Auger and Post Assembly' held in place by one bolt and placed new 'Agitator Auger and Post Assembly'. SIMPLE and good price.

removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.

First push inner tub to left rear, all the way, and
unscrew hinge from inside of tub. repeat same on
right side. lift cover off and unscrew other half of
hinge off cover, both sides.reverse procedures and your done.
Note: always replace both hinge's new while
you have it apart.

My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.

Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.

Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.

I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.

• Remove power and all hoses
• Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release
• Remove front and rear panels, 10mm
• Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool
• Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt
• Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission.
• Inspect base plate for damage
• Lay drum on padded surface, upside down
• Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers
• Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out.
• Clean dust from area.
• Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws.
• Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.

My tips:

• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.

• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.

• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.

• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.

• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.

That's about it. I took me about 4 hours

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

Removed screws form back of console cover, removed bad pressure switch, Installed new, repeated steps in reverse order.

First I removed the bolt and removed the old agitator and post assembly then I put the new agitator and post assembly in place and tightened the bolt. It was so easy, when I called the manufacturer they wanted to send out a technician, but thanks to Parts Select I fixed the problem without spending alot of money and without the hassle.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.