This fan assembly circulates air to support cooling or ventilation functions. Designed for reliable airflow, it helps maintain consistent temperatures and efficient operation.
This water inlet valve is a genuine replacement part that controls the flow of water to your refrigerator’s ice maker and dispenser, helping ensure steady ice production and proper dispensing. It feat...
This part is a temperature sensing devise. It senses the rise in evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and cycles the defrost heater off after all frost is melted. It is calibrated to permit a...
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced. Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"
I paid for the expedited shipping and they sent me a cheap knockoff attempt at the part that had the wrong size hole. So they refunded me the money I paid for the part but not the shipping, and then I crushed the part they sent me with a hammer and threw it away.
