This OEM filter measures 2.5 inches deep, 12.5 inches high, 5 inches wide and roughly 1.5 lbs. It is recommended to replace this filter every six months or 300 gallons, whichever comes first. If you n...
This part is the replacement water line or tube for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. This tube supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser If your refri...
Struggling with a malfunctioning ice maker or water dispenser in your LG refrigerator? The genuine LG Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly might just be the vital component you need. Crafted for yo...
This genuine OEM lever spring exerts tension between the ice maker door plunger and the ice maker itself on your refrigerator. If there is little to no tension holding your ice door seal in place, the...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if it will not dispense water or ice...
This fan assembly circulates air to support cooling or ventilation functions. Designed for reliable airflow, it helps maintain consistent temperatures and efficient operation.
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
3 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Antron
December 2, 2019
Er ff code on refrigerator and its not freezing and cooling properly
For model number LRSC26922TT
Hi Anton, thank you for your question. The FF error code means that the evaporator fan motor is not turning. It sounds like your appliance may not be defrosting properly, as that would account for the temperature issues in your appliance as well. When frost builds up on your coils it blocks the fan. You can use a multi meter to test most of the parts. Make sure you cut power to your appliance before doing any repairs or tests. First you should test your defrost thermostat. Place the thermostat in ice cold water for 2-3 minutes after removing it from your appliance. It should be reading 0 ohms to be working correctly. Another part to check would be your defrost heater. Remove it from the appliance. It should be reading anywhere between 0 - 50 ohms to be working. You could check your temperature sensor. To find the correct reading for this part you will have to refer to your tech sheet that comes with your appliance. You can usually find this tech sheet behind the bottom grille of your fridge on either the right or left side. These are the most common parts that cause this issue in your appliance. So it is suggested you check them first. If you do not have any frost build up or anything like that, then the part you may want to look at is the fan motor. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
1 personfound this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Alain
March 18, 2020
My ice is not coming out from the ice dispenser anymore
On the questions/answer
They are saying to replace
Solenoid assembly
Is that True? How much does it cost ?Also bottom draw of that fridge is broken.do you sell that part as well?let me know .alain
For model number LRSC26922TT
Hello Alain, thank you for your question. If ice is not dispensing, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the solenoid assembly, the ice chute door, the micro switch and the lever spring. The bottom drawer inside the refrigerator is showing as PartSelect number PS3518887. We hope this helps.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Jamie
April 8, 2025
I need to order the bottom drawer for the fridge side, but it says the part is unavailable. Probably because the fridge is old. What drawer is compatible with this unit?
For model number LRSC26922TT
Hi Jamie,
Thank you for your question. The part number for the bottom vegetable tray assembly is PS3518887. We hope this helps!
Detected noise as coming from top freezer department, and tips and part diagram clearly pointed to evaporator fan. You go in through the freezer (you have to empty top half of freezer); removing the side rails holding the ice bin, and then the 4 outer screws (only 2 each side - not the middle ones) holding the 'auger' that turns the bin. From there it gets interesting in trying to disconnect the wires. You might consider taking some pictures of the connected wires - perhaps it doesn't matter, but several of them can be hooked up in reverse. After the ice marker is out, remove light and light cover, side rails/mounts that hold hold up ice maker. This leaves a large white cover that pops out (seam at bottom of it has two tabs that you can pop out) holding the fan; and then only a few more wires to disconnect to be able to get at the fan. Mine clearly had a wobble to it confirming the source of the squeak and need to replace. Install was just reverse -- a bit tricky to get some of the wires connected given the tight spaces. Overall, not difficult - but a lot of wires and screws to connect/disconnect. I didn't take any pictures as I disassembled, and found myself having to take some extra time to figure it out as I reassembled. In the end -- a silent and functioning refrigerator Good luck!
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
