LNC6762A71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

Took out the two top screws out that hold the top down on the back so you can lift the lid up. Removed the cover plate on the back. Take out the screw that holds the valve in place. Reach up through the access panel and undo the to clips that hold the hose and wiring. Lift the lid up and pull the unit up and remove hose and electrical connections and put back in reverse order. Very simple to do.

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

Removed inspection panel on rear of washer. Pump right there. Removed inlet and outlet hoses with pliers on squeeze clamps. Three 3/8" size self tapping screws were removed and old pump came right out. Reversed process with new pump from this site that fit perfectly. New pump was an upgrade factory part that mounted inside washer without a mounting plate as the old one did.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

Always check the basics first!

Mistakenly replaced the water valve (even though it was buzzing idicating it had power and showed 110V across terminals). Assumed the water lines were working. Turned out to be a clogged cold water line (safety valve clogged). Replaced both lines for good measure, machine working fine.

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

1. Pulled top off (liquid softener dispenser section)
2. Put 2 socket extension and a 13 mm socket together with socket wrench (tool).
3. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and unscrew bolt.
4. Remove tool and then remove old agitator.
5. Turn old agitator upside down to remove bolt.
6. Insert new agitator where old agitator was in washer.
7. Insert bolt.
8. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and screw in bolt.
9. Pop top back on.

Hardest part was finding extensions because one wouldn't reach.

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.