LK45C LG Refrigerator - Overview

I ordered and replaced the ice maker. To replace:

1. Go behind refrigerator and unplug electrical cord and turn off water supply.

2. In freezer locate electrical plug for ice maker. It has two tabs on the left and right side of it. Lift the tabs and pull the plug to disconnect it.

3. Remove the three screws, 2 on top and 1 on bottom of ice maker You can actually leave the screws in place if you loosen them sufficiently and lift the ice maker off of the screws and washers.

4. Install the new ice maker using the screws and plastic washers to secure it.

5. Plug the electrical connector for ice maker into the receptacle. Note: The plug only goes one way and is keyed with different shaped plugs and holes. The wires on my plug naturally fell upside down so I had to turn the plug 180 degrees to make it fit in the slot.

6. Turn on water and check for leaks.

7. Plug back in refrigerator and you should have ice in less than 12 hours.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"