The temperature sensor, also known as an oven probe, detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This temperature sensor is 9 inches in length and is a genuine OEM part. If your oven is too hot, n...
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside yo...
The 6” radiant cooking element with limiter fits under the glass cooktop and supplies heat to the cooking area. If your element is not heating, you can test the element for continuity with a multimete...
This is a replacement rack for your oven. The oven rack fits into grooves on the side of the oven wall, and acts as a shelf that you can place food items on when you want to cook them in the oven. Thi...
If your oven isn’t heating properly or the display isn’t working, it might be time to replace the control board. This part helps manage your oven’s temperature, heating elements, and functions like ba...
This part is a single oven rack link arm. It is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. It connects the oven rack to the door bracket, to allow the rack to extend out when you open the oven door...
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18 questions answered by our experts.
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Mitchell
January 27, 2020
One burner stays on when the control knob is off and seems not to be able to adjust the temperature of the burner
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hi Mitchell, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your radiant element. It should be reading between 0 - 120 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. Good luck with your repair.
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Diane
March 10, 2023
My oven takes a really long time to get up to temperature. Any idea of whats wrong?
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hello Diane, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend that you check the oven temperature sensor, part number PS1528542, and the bake element, part number PS1991807. If the problem still persists, we suggest you replace the control board, part number PS9494055. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
My range beeps repeatedly then displays F11 ERR and beeps continuously. Pressing any number returns it to intermittent beeping then a loop.
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hello Eric, thank you for your query. We have found that the F11 error code means that the control board is sensing a stuck or shorted key on the touch membrane. To fix the issue, we would recommend checking the electronic control board, part number PS9494055. We hope this solves your problem!
Where is the thermal fuse for this model? Bought new motherboard and it won't light up. someone said the thermal fuse is blown. Thank You
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hi Diana, thank you for your inquiry. Based on our research, your model does not have any thermal fuse. We have concluded that the issue is with the terminal block, part number PS2333392. We would suggest checking the terminal block to fix the issue. Good luck with your repair!
Why does my oven stay on and my cancel button is not shutting it off.
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hello Stan, thank you for reaching out. It seems like the control board is defective and needs to be replaced. The part number for the electronic control board is PS9494055. Additionally, you can also check the thermostat and the heating elements for continuity with a multimeter and replace the faulty part. If you require assistance to place an order, please contact customer service. We hope that helps!
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
