LFC25760TT (ATICLGA) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

viewed video and followed instructions was a piece of cake

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

Part Select had a great video which made the repair easy, using a putty knife to start removing the freeze door gasket. Once removed the install is simple just snap the new gasket into the track, but start at the corner. Other company's have a video requiring you to remove the entire freezer compartment out of the appliance, unnecessary waste of time and labor.

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.

Watched a couple of YouTube videos and then went at it

Removed screws and the plastic shelf tops from the broken shelf. These parts are sold separately. Do NOT throw anything away until you know you have what you need.
Gentle pull the shelf to spread it enough to get the plastic pieces in. This is the only hard part. Screw the slides onto the new frame. Snap the covers into the crisper fronts. You’ll want to force them in but don’t. They will snap and break.

After noting frost in freezer Right rail started to jam. Noted freezer door was closing crooked. Rail replacement resolved issue. It had been frosting up for some time so Rail must have been broken for a while. Check door seals they were not closing flush.

Pops right In