LEV4634JQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

You open up the lint filter access door and remove the two small screws that hold it to the top of the dryer. Once they are removed, you insert a flat blade screwdriver under front-top of the unit and the top will pop off. Exerting a little pressure towards you will help lift to top off the mounts. There are no other screws to remove.
The new switch comes attached to a clip. You just pull off the old clip and replace it with the new one and discard the old switch.

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!

I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repair took less than 10 minutes.

unpluged the dryer, removed the back panel, I examined the heating coil, it seemed unbroken, so I used a amp meter to test the various sensors. Found the upper thermal sensor was bad, looked up the part and ordered it, had to get the thermal cut off kit to get the sensor I needed. Installed it no problem, put the back back on, and it worked great.

First, I replaced the heating element which was super easy but I still didn't have heat - frustrating! I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit and thermal fuse. I replaced the thermal fuse and still no heat. Then, I took one of the fuses from the kit and replaced that and finally got heat. There was another fuse in this kit that I still don't know where it goes but right now I don't need it. Had I known (by a volt tester) this would have been super easy to fix, but I didn't have one so it was trial and error. I did find out, however, that if the heating element goes it usually takes the fuse with it. The fuse I replaced (that finally gave me heat) was located in the casing just above the element. I hope this helps!

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!

Turned off the power.Pulled the dryer out, removed the screws from the control cover panel, unplugged the switch, pressed the release clip the did the opposite to install new switch. Replaced the back panel, put the nob on and it looks as good as new.Turned on the power.

This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.

after watching many videos on my problem and finding Partselect i read about others with same type issues and i decided to attempt my own repair.the first thing i did was go to home depot and buy a ohm meter around $10 then started testing all switches etc.first unplug the dryer then removed the rear panal and tested all circuits.my heating element tested bad so i removed it following the instructions from partselect taking about 5min.my heating element was broken.its funny but my dryer kept on running continually when it stopped heating,but the timer would move to the very end and just not quit.after reading on partselect i determined that my resistor not my timer was the problem.so i ordered the resistor without testing it first from partselect.turns out it was the problem now my dryer heats up fine and goes off like its supose to.i do advise to test things first like i should have but i just got lucky on the resistor.partselect is the only place i will buy from they are fast getting your part to you 2 days for me,and very cost effective.i spent around $84 including the cost of a ohm meter to repair my dryer which is 18 years old.beats the cost of replacing the dryer which i think many will agree.good luck on your repair hope this helped it was my first time ever repairing any home appliance.

Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

Removed rear panel 10 screws, and heating element was situated on the right hand side of dryer and was held in place by two screws and had two heavy duty red wires connected to the element which were easily removed . Installing this item was a breeze .

I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks

Went to 3 big appliances stores - Not one carried any type of Lint Filter for Dryer. Went on line & typed in Lint Filter for Dryer in search bar. Part Select came up. Went thru site to ordering - Part Select made so easy to order. You just type in your Manufacture name & they instruct you step by step how to find model number & type of filter you need. So Easy. Very economical. I ordered & within 4 days I had my filter. I used 7-14 day delivery & was so pleased I had my filter within 4 days. Parts Select sent me email verifying my order as well as email when the part shipped.
Wonderful Customer Service. I will definitely use Part Select for any need part on any appliance.
Easy - Economical & One Stop Shopping. Love it

Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.