LEA50AW (PLEA50AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.
to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.

1. I removed the lower front panel.
2. Carful remove the front door making not of which wires whent were of the switch
3. Removed the front bulkhead.
4. Drilled out the rivits that held the bracket in place.
5 Use a pop rivit gun and 1/8 in pop rivit and washer.
6 Installed the felt pad and the drum guide.
7 Put the whole thing back together.

I love your web site the exploded diagrams make fixing my dryer quite easy. I do it. so for under $50 my dryer is almost like new.

Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.

I first removed the two front screws on the front cover located on the lower half of the dryer using a flash light looking on the left side all the way to the back you will see two hex screws removing them will now let you wiggle the heating element back & fourth while pulling down it will come out in just a few seconds - then with your digital camera take a picture of the still wired heating element as to a clear reference for wiring the new element - first Aline the new element in the same direction as the old element and transfer them one by one check camera for assurance that you have done it correctly and re-reinstall in the reverse order

also I would recommend taking off that black plastic blower chute and cleaning it assuringly the best performance of air flow

I inserted the clip

First, leaned dryer back and removed 2 screws at bottom front panel.
Then removed 2 screws at bottom of door assembly.
Pulled bottom door assembly forward and down.
Disconnected "can't go wrong" wiring connectors.
Then removed old cylinder glide rivets at bottom of cylinder using drill motor with 1/4" drill.
I installed new felt pads on new cylinder glides. Then installed glides with rivet gun.
Reconnected wire harness.
Installed door assembly and lower panel assembly.
BACK IN BUSINESS! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!

Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done

After removing the front of the dryer, I took out the front assembly where the seal and glide brackets attatch. I replaced the bad cylinder glide by drilling the old rivets out and re-riveting the new glide in place from the back side. I then replaced the felt pads and glides on the glide brackets and glued a new cylinder seal around the front assembly. I reccomend having 4 hands for placing the cylinder seal around the assembly with fresh glue.

Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the front holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!

1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

First I went to Maytag.com thinking it was best to go to the manufacturer for parts. Their search engine did not even recognize my part number. I tried every way I could think of. Then I just entered the model number in google and it sent me to the Partselect.com website. Diagrams came up and I chose parts from the pictures. The parts arrived in about 3 or 4 days and fit perfectly.

Replaced the recommended drum rollers, belt and tensioner, light bulb. Found repair manual online (bit of a hunt)made job easier still took 2.5 hrs. Then turned drum by hand no squeak. Turned it on and still squeaked. Isolated to motor. Replaced it (had to take dryer completely apart again but went quicker due to experience also had to disassemble the motor assy and rebuild. Took 1.5 hrs works like new now. The design of the dryer is not bad remove bottom front panel first, screws at very bottom of panel then two more screws are uncovered to remove front. It just lifts up and pulls out. then remove four bolts which hold front frame on (supports drum) all this has to be done to reach the replacement parts. drum wheels are held on by snap rings not the screws (real fun if you take them out) reverse to reassemble.

I first suspected the heating element or thermal overload had gone out due to lint buildup etc. from previous dry experience. I went into the lower portion (2 screws in lower front panel) of the cabinet and after checking other posts here was able to go to and remove the element assy. quickly from the left rear of unit (2, 5/16” hex screws). Using my VOM the element tested good, so did the limit switches in the element assembly and the warm air duct. I vacuumed this area while there and made sure the duct was clean. Checked belt & tensioned. The problem must be up in the control panel section. I pulled apart the control panel (2, ¼ hex screws trim& 3, ¼” hex screws panel face) I found the orange lead push on connector from the timer switch to the heat selector control had overheated and burnt the wire in two had also burnt the terminal on the timer. Trimming back the discolored wire I crimped on another connector. My new timer came overnight as promised by PartSelect. The job was $20 cheaper than just the part locally that would have had to be ordered, plus shipping, plus tax.

Determined that the 2 completely worn off front & rear drum seals were causing dryer to take too long to dry clothes.
Removed the front bottom panel first, then the middle panel and then the top panel. After removing the belt from the drum, it came out easily. Replaced both thermostats and fuse
just so they would be new in the unit.
Reglued the seals in place and waited til glue dried. Then reassembled everything back. Also lubricated the drum wheels. Everything worked and was quiet!