LDE4914ACE Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Inserted new lint filter...one second! No tools needed. Price excellent!

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Took out the old lint filter and put in the new one. Works great

Unplug dryer--remove back panel of control console--swap out buzzer--cover back--plug in--good to go.

No manual on this so had to remove about 12 screws to figger out disassembly,after locating the right ones[front]the job was easy.Remove front plate,remove drum bearing,remove blower front cover,remove snap ring,remove broken fan,clean fan shaft,slide new fan onto shaft[there is a flat in the bore of new fan]instal fan retainer on stub of fan,reinstal snap ring,reinstal the rest of the parts,test drive system[all sat]The part was exactly as ordered,thanks,Jim Thompson

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

1. Removed two screws from front panel.
2. Removed panel.
3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face.
4. Removed face.
5. Removed drum and belt.
6. Vacuumed.
7. Replaced idler spring assembly.
8. Replaced drum.
9. Replaced belt.
10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated.
11. Replaced tumbler face.
12. Replaced front panel.

I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley.
I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley.
The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.

Removed the frong cover and and internal sheild, removed and replaced thermostatic, wiring as original.
I had searched several other sites first for thee part, but none of them seemed accurate. Your photo matched the old exactly, giving me the confidence I wanted before ordering.

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

From the noise level and info on this site, I assumed I needed to replace the drum rollers. I ordered two, along with the Roller Shaft, and a replacement belt (I assumed that would eventually need to be replaced so why not now).
No need for me to repeat the excellent reviews/instructions already on this site. Basically, it was an easy job that took about 2 hours, mostly because I took the time to clean every nook and cranny I could find.
Once I assembled it back up, the shriek was gone but the rumble noise was still there. I now realize that the blower wheel must have a worn out d-hole that mates with the motor shaft. So, I will have to order that part, get it installed and I am confident that I will have a "new" machine once that is in place.

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.

The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:

"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."

Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.

With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.

Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:

TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)

The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.

I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.

I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.