This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
This pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
This switch (Lid Switch Assembly With Leads, Washer Lid Switch, Lid Switch Assembly, Washer Lid Switch) tells the washing machine that the lid is closed, which allows the wash cycle to begin. The lid ...
The valve body of this part could be blue or green in color. There are two ports for water to enter, and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This main outer tub seal is a critical component that prevents water from leaking at the bottom of the tub during operation. Measuring approximately 2 inches in diameter, it is constructed from durabl...
$10.09
In Stock
Questions And Answers for LBR5232EQ1
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Teresa
January 29, 2020
It quit spinning out, when I tried resetting it, it quit agitating. Also, the whole tub feels like it will not move in either direction. Like its locked up.
For model number LBR5232EQ1
Hi Teresa,
Thank you for your question. If the washer is not spinning or agitating, the lid switch may be faulty and you will need to test it with a multi-meter to see if it has continuity. Begin by unplugging your washing machine, and then remove the top panel or cabinet. Locate the switch and verify that it is being activated when the lid is closed. If it is, remove the switch in order to test it. Set your multi-meter to the Rx1 setting, touch the probes to the terminals, and press and hold the switch button down. The multi-meter should show a reading zero or nearly zero. If your test produces different results, you will need a replacement lid switch. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Don
March 19, 2023
Hi. My washer leaks water onto the floor during spin cycle on large loads, takes several towels to mop up. Problem is not present on small loads. What do you recommend?
For model number LBR5232EQ1
Hi Don,
Thank you for your question. If your washer leaks water onto the floor for large loads during the spin cycle, it be off-balance. Check and make sure that the legs are level and make sure you are not overfilling the washer. If you have any questions, please let us know. We look forward to hearing from you!
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William
April 9, 2024
What is the difference bewteen a suspension spring and a leveling spring?
For model number LBR5232EQ1
Hello William, thank you for getting in touch. According to our research, the suspension spring, part number PS11743345, supports the outer tub and keeps the tub stable during unbalanced loads. The leveling spring, part number PS394983, is used on the leveling components in a washer. It attaches to the two leveling link arms at the lower back of the unit to provide tension to the links. We hope this information is useful!
When in spin cycle it makes a very high pitched sound. What could be causing this?
For model number LBR5232EQ1
Hi Ren, thank you for contacting us. The issue could be with the bearing, part number PS334448. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
1. Unplug washer. 2. Remove screws at control panel end caps. 3. Flip control panel back to expose wiring. 4. Detach lid switch wiring harness from control panel. 5. Use screwdriver to pry the 2 brass clips holding the back panel of the washer to the front and sides piece. 6. Tilt the front/sides piece over to expose lid switch. 7. Use nutdriver to detach ground wire. 8. Use screwdriver to remove 2 screws holding lid switch in place. 9. Install new lid switch. Make sure wiring harness piece is facing the right direction. 10. Put washer back together in same order it was disassembled. Make sure front/sides piece connects to the clips at the bottom.
The hardest part of this job was pulling the machine away from the wall so the hoses could be disconnected and the machine flipped onto it's back. Putting the machine on it's back does two things. It drains the water left in the bottom of the tub so it won't pour out onto the motor when the old pump is removed, and gives the necessary access to the pump. Once the machine is on it's back you remove the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and disconnect the hoses. The pump is secured to the motor with a pair of spring steel retaining clips which are easily popped off by hand. Once the clips are removed, the pump is in your hand. Put the new pump in place, replace the retaining clips and hoses, and you're done. This has to have been the easiest repair I've ever done. I wish cleaning gutters was this easy.
