KUDP01ILWH6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

I had no lights on the console. Found the internal fuse blown, as I was looking around noticed the door latch also broken so I replaced that as well. Items were easy to identify from the bom and repairs completed in about 15-20 minutes. Dishes all clean now.

I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

1, I shut off ac circuit breaker.
2.Shut off water supply valve.
3.disconnected water line from inlet valve.
4. disconnect the drainage hose.
5. have plenty of towels to mop up water.
6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub.
7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter.
8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope.
9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub.
10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.

It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp!
Left some blood there.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.

First i remove upper rack held in by 2 clips at end of metal tracks. Compress inside clips and pull up then slide rack out of tracks.Then remove bottom rack just pick it up.Then i removed bottom sprayer by unscrewing center thumb screw. Then removed feeder tube for top sprayer held in place by 2 ea. phillips screws one on celin of tub and one at back of tub. Move tube to the right which unlocks it and remove. This has to be done to expose 4 ea. star screws. Remove screws and pop screen cover off. You have to take a towel and soak up water to expose bottom of inlets and outlets for water. You will then see the chopper blade with metal screen behind it. It is held in place with on star screw to the left of round top cover. Remove cover and pull on chopper blade which will release it from fingers mated from shaft to chopper blade .While pulling on chopper blade toward front of dishwasher pull up on metal screen it will come out. Clean all food particals out i used a shop vac worked well. Be careful not to drop screws in water inlets. The plastic shaft was broken in half by a piece of dental floss wrapped around shaft. I hope this helps it was not that diffacult just hard to work over door.

My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.

Removed old seal, cleaned track, applied adhesive for new seal, seated new seal in track, closed door for 24 hours to allow adhesive to cure, then used dishwasher without difficulty. An easy repair.

I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet. This is what took the most time. Before removing the dishwasher from under the cabinet I disconnected the drain cable to remove all the water from unit. After removing the dishwasher I tipped the unit on its left side. The motor/pump assembly is held in with one screw. After removing this screw the pump/motor assembly comes out with a 1/8 turn counter clock wise. The replacement pump/motor assembly was put back in in reverse order. After the pump/motor assembly was replaced I replaced the door balance cable kit on the right side of the unit. Next I tipped the unit on to its right side and replace the left balance cable kit. After this all that was left was to return the unit back under the cabinet and hook up the water supply line, the drain line, and the power.

So easy to install even a caveman can do it!

First I removed the screws holding the outside door panel to the inside door panel. Next (at this was the tricky part) was separating the panels. In our model of dishwasher, there is a layer of Styrofoam between the two panel to reduce noise. Unfortunately the Styrofoam is glued to both panels. Separating it without damage was not possible. So it was done with brute force and the Styrofoam broke in several places.

Replacing the dispenser involved removing six screws, disconnecting the wires and popping the dispenser out. The new one went in easily although there seemed to be a correct amount of tightening to do. It was tricky to get the cover back on because the Styrofoam pieces had to go back together like a puzzle.

Once reassembled, I ran the machine and it leaked at the dispenser. So the cover came back off. This time I played with the adjustment of the dispenser, testing it with the outside cover off, to insure that I had a tight, non-leaking seal. Once done, I put the cover back on and we are back in business.

The new dispensers do not have connections for the "Add Rinse Aid" light. They use a visual indicator on the dispenser itself. I simply taped the wire for the indicator light up and left it inside the door.

One last note, on our unit, the outside door panel is two pieces. I needed only to removed the lower portion for this repair. Unfortunately, I removed both and in the process broke the small plastic end on the door latch requiring me to purchase a new one. Bummer. That was a 10 minute repair though.

After I removed the button holder from the upper wash arm supply line, I put the new botton connecter in it's place. I then held the button in place, slightly bending down the water supply, while bring the wash arm, with the lower support in place, pushing the support onto the button holder. The whole thing took less than 30 seconds.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

The silverware basket can be lifted out using an integral handle. I tossed it away when it started crumbling. When the new part arrived, I removed it from the box, and dropped into the recess in the lower section of the dishwasher. No tools required.