KSSP36QJS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

Power down the refrigerator with the disconnect switch under the upper panel. Empty the freezer. Remove the bins and shelves. Use nutdriver to remove the screws holding the back trim panel in place. Remove the panel. Take picture of the wire connections going to the motor. Remove the motor mounting bracket. Remove old motor/fan assembly from bracket. Press new fan blade onto new motor. Transfer each wire from old assembly to matching location on new motor. Mount new motor to bracket. Remount bracket to freezer. Reinstall back panel. Turn power back on. Enjoy quiet refrigerator.

Turned the old filter to get it out, and insert the new filter. Make sure the O ring isn't dislodged.

I didn't have to buy a new Ice door kit. The part on the Refrig. door I needed I found out was unavailable. The door parts (Ice door parts and the asembly for the water unit) screws into that part. I found out that I would have to replace the whole refrig. door which was $900.00. I took every apart got me some pvc glue used it on the door and bought the original screw online with some other assorted parts,Door switch, etc. and was able to repair in about an hour. Some of the parts are very fraigle so you have to be very careful or you will be buying some new replacement parts.The new nickel and dime parts are expensive. My Icemaker was leaking where the Ice was clumping together in the bin, and when I checked the unit was $125.00. I found a new one and replaced it for about half that price. I am now very happy! (a least until the next project.)

Our unit is a built-in unit so first had to remove the decorative cover panel to expose the internal on/off switch. Turned off the circuit breaker. Disconnected the wires (simple pull-off/push-on). Removed the old switch which meant clipping the plastic tabs holding the switch in position. Inserted the new switch by simply pushing it through the opening being sure to have it in the same alignment ('off' to the back of the unit.) Reconnected the wires making sure to have a white ground wires on the left and the black 'hot' wires on the right. Turned the circuit breaker back on. Turned the switch on. Now it runs.

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

worked great parts were perfect!

hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.

First, I removed the two screws that hold the metal grille on the bottom front of the refrigerator, under the doors. I removed the grille panel. The drip pan rests on two tracks directly under the coils. There is a small spring clip that needs to be pushed upward to allow the drip pan to slide forward. I removed the old drip pan, and slid the new one all the way into place.
I then replaced the bottom front grille using the screws on each end.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

I removed the grate at the top of the refrigerator and then removed the upper hinge plate. I also disconnected the spring return at the bottom of the door. Lifting the door up allowed it to be removed and laid down on the floor. Then I replaced the hinge stop and Gap cover on the bottom hinge.
I then set the door on the lower hinge, reinstalled the upper hinge plate and reattached the return spring on the bottom of the door.

Take pictures of original setup in case you need to refer back and turn off power at the panel. Remove the White panel in the back of the freezer ( 16 screws). Unscrew two screws holding the motor / fan blade and remove. Remove the hot/neutral and ground wires and remove the motor/fan unit. You will have to use the old brackets as the new motor does not come with them so don't throw the old motor just yet. The brackets will have to be removed from the old motor by removing two 1/4 screws and placing the brackets onto the new motor in the same fashion. Once this is complete, just reassemble new motor in reverse order. since the fan has to fit into a tight opening and the mounting brackets have to line up to screw the whole unit in, I assembled everything lightly tightened and mounted the unit to make sure the screws lined up and the fan blade had clearance in the fan opening so that it did not rub. Since the bracket screws are not 100% tightened, this allows some wiggle room to adjust. Once everything is lined up, tighten all bracket screws 100%. Insert the wires and your ready to go. Reinstall the White panel and 16 screws. Motor has been working great since installation.