KRMF606ESS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Used screw driver to pop out old switch. Used pliers to hold wire connection from fall back into slot on fridge. Inserted new swith into plug and pressed new switch back in place.

plugged the two wires in and snapped the switch into it's socket.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

I had several times tried to get the old switch out but with no success. Ordered the "repair kit" and followed directions for removing old switch (there is a plastic spring clip on one side). Easy to unplug the old switch, plug the leads into the new one, snap the new one into place. Took about 5 minutes total--piece of cake. I wish I'd thought to try this years ago when the old switch began to fail.

Installing the switch was a breeze, the tough part was removing the old switch. I watched a video on the PartSelect website which showed how to remove and reinstall the switch. I attempted to remove the switch the same way that they showed on the video, but the problem was my switch was surrounded with foam insulation which was stuck to the old switch. I attempted to pull out the switch but was not able to extricate the switch. Finally, I called a friend who works with these switches and he cut away the foam insulation and removed the switch. Being the handyman that I am, I was able to reinstall the new switch. Hope this helps anyone with an Amana refrigerator that has the light switch on the side wall instead of in the light console like the video showed. Don't be afraid to cut away the foam on the right and left sides and the bottom. Don't cut away at the top, because that is where the wire connections are located and you might cut those off and then you'll be ordering more parts. Good luck.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!