KEMC308KSS02 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

A screw on the botton of the door was very inaccessible and difficult to remove. The rest of the process was flawless.

I just placed the tray in and was done. The kicker is that i cannot use my microwave without the tray. so i was without my microwave for 2 weeks before i called parts select. they were quick and fast.

easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

Removed 4 screws top and bottom of the outer door panel. Remove outer door, then the two inner panes of glass. You are then able to remove the broken inner glass. Carefully slide the new inner glass into place, being careful not to tear the insulation. Once new inner glass is in place carefully replace the two inner glass panes and secure the screws. Replace the outer door and the top and bottom screws and that's it!

Just had to remove the screws holding the outer part of the door on (didn't have to take off the entire door). Using the other door spring (most models have two that cross) as an example, the new spring was fairly easy to place. Only problem is that the new spring was made from a smaller gauge metal and is not nearly as strong as the original, making the door feel heavier when opening/closing than before. The difference with and without the 2nd spring is barely noticeable. Had I known that they were making the parts cheaper now, I would'nt have bothered fixing it at all.

I removed the door from the oven by locking the hinges with the built-in locks leaving the door open about 20 degrees. the door can then be lifted slightly off the hinges and pulled out at the bottom while tilting the top inward to remove it from the oven. With the door laying on a suitable surface with the outside face down, I removed about 6 or 8 screws from the door inside panel freeing the springs and the inside panel from the middle and front panels. Care must be taken to note from which locations the pointed self-taping screws come as opposed to the narrower-thread machine screws that hold the springs. Note: The inside panel does not need to be removed! Once the inside panel is freed from the inner panels, using suction cups the glass can be lifted slightly and slid toward the bottom of the door, rotated slightly, and removed through the window hole in the back face of the door. The new glass is installed in a similar way using suction cups by maneuvering it at a angle through window hole and into its frame. The hinges were replaced by lifting the bottom of the inner door panel slightly to clear the hinge and swapping in the new ones. Be sure to observe the difference between the left and right hinges in the location of the screw hole at the bottom of each hinge The narrow-thread machine screws that hold the hinges to the inside panel should be installed first while you can get you hand inside the door to hold each hinge in alignment with the screw holes while you start each screw. Re-install the pointed self tapping screws by pressing down on the rear panel to collapse the spring-action glass frames within the door so that the short screws will reach their threaded hole. Be careful to back off the self tapping screws first until you feel a click into the original threads to avoid stripping the holes. Last re-install the door on the oven. The replacement hinges should have come with the springs already "cocked" with the built in locks in place. Install the door with it in tan almost-closed position by sliding the hinge extensions into the slots in the oven. Once the extensions are properly in the slots the door can be fully opened and the built-in hinge locks re-positioned to the unlocked position to allow the door to fully close. Should you accidentally release only one of the hinge locks in trying to insert the hinge extensions into the slots you will have to reset the hinge. If the door is free from the oven, this may require a pair of heavy pliers, like channel lock pliers, to re-tension the hinge spring and "cock" the hinge extension by re-positioning the built-in lock in the locked position. If the hinge lock on one side of the door releases, but the the opposite side hinge extension is not fully inserted into the oven slot I recommend carefully moving the door to the fully open position, being careful to avoid twisting the inserted spring's extension, so that the hinge lock can be re-positioned to the locked position, the door full removed, and start again to install it. It helps to have two persons to hold opposite sides of the door for this operation as the door is heavy, but not essential. When in the proper position the hinge extensions may not appear fully inserted, but this is normal to allow for closing of the built in locks. It helps to observe how much of the hinge extension is exposed either before removing the door initially, or, if you have a double oven, looking at the hinges on the door of the other oven. Good luck with your repair.

This is the third time that the bulb went out.It took two Sears service technitions to remove the entire appliance out of the cabinet. The entire top has to be removed and the insolation has to be pulled back to get to the electrical wire. I am waiting for an appointment to get Sears to do it again. The door springs have broken and you have to make sure the door is closed before walking away. It has a heavy glass and the weight is pretty heavy. Robert.

Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

The exact part for this oven is no longer available. I purchased one hat was close in size, but larger than the original. Upper and lower brackets hold the glass in place, so length was not a problem but height was. I removed the upper brackets, re-shaped them with the vise, a hammer and metal shears. The glass would now sit inside the bracket where the screws also went. I had to be quite careful the screws did not shatter the new glass.

The hardest part was aligning the 4 holes for the top brackets. Since 2 holes were on one piece of the door, and 2 were on the other (holding the glass sandwiched between) precision was critical. Also the screw length was critical because the glass now sat in a area where it could come in contact with the screws. (I know - pictures would be most helpful, and I didn't take any.)

Using tape and lots of patience, I got the holes aligned. I covered the old holes inside the oven door with spare screws. I filed down the points of the sheet metal screws so that, if they contacted the glass, they would not be pointed.

Once everything was reassembled, I turned the oven on high for about 1/2 hour to ensure the heated metal and glass all played nicely together. We've had no problems in the month since the repair.

The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on the edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.

The replacement turntable we received was an exact duplicate of the original. It was as easy as rinsing the new turntable, taking the old turntable out and putting the new one in.