This black grease filter helps keep your cooktop’s vent system clean by trapping grease from the exhaust air. It’s easy to install—no tools needed—and protects the blower from buildup. If your current...
$40.03
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Having trouble with your Whirlpool cooktop? Don't worry ? we've got just the cure for you ? the powerful Whirlpool REGULATOR. Designed to help your cooktop operate at its peak, this part ensures an ef...
$238.99
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This is a 4-point re-ignition spark module. NOTE: This part has been redesigned by the manufacture, it may appear different but will still function the same.
$311.69
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Having issues with your 30" gas cooktop? Let's get it up and running again with this genuine Whirlpool Burner Cap Kit. These robust, high-quality burner caps are more than just components; they act as...
$156.10
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This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!
Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.
