KBUDT4265E Refrigerator - Instructions

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Because of the design change of the door hinge it was more difficult to slide the pin into the door and spring. I used an allen wrench to hold it in place on the left side so I could slide the pin in the right hole. Then removed the allen wrench so I could slide the pin all the way. I was very impressed with the time that it took to get the kit. I ordered it about 1:30PM and the following day I had the kit delivered by 6PM. FANTASTIC SERVICE!

I unplugged the fridge, removed the face plate on the front, disconnected the power feeds, unscrewed the electrical panel and moved it out of the way.
I then dismantled and removed the broken part and installed the new part. I was able to use the rest of the existing parts to get the job done.
I put everything back together, and voila! it works great.

Remove Ice bucket, Remove Phillips screw from bottom of coupling. replace washer, Coupling and screw. replace bucket. very simple.

Remove the old part with pliers and pulled out used water filter Installed replacement water filter on cap and installed in grill area below door Hooray !

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Detached the broken ice guide by expandong the opening bewteen the tabs with my hands. Installed the new ice guide and pressed into place. Took about 3 minutes.

replaced the water filter. very easy, just insert and turn.

Unpluged the refrigerator, removed the burnt out switch by unpluging it, plugged the new one in re installed the switch into cover. Plugged in refrigerator replaced cover. Done. Easy as one two three

Starting at the bottom, with a flat blade screwdriver pry the front cover off the opening. Unplug the wire connector from the back, remove the cover plate holding the switches and light socket by pushing out on the plastic clips on each side. Use something like a bungie cord to hold it up out of the way. Carefully unsnap the clear plastic ice shoot from the push arm, next carefully unsnap the cover door from the push arm. Clean anything that needs cleaning (CLR works great on hard water deposits)
Install everything in reverse order, the cover door first, ice shoot next, switch plate, plug in the wire connector and snap the outside cover in place.

Ordered the part from your convenient diagram, watched your video, and changed the part. I flipped the breaker switch so I didn’t have to move the fridge to unplug. Thanks. Saved me a lot of money.

Observing how the control bracket was held in place, and how the switch for the ice dispenser was secured to bracket, I removed the control bracket free of plastic clips. I disconnected the main wiring harness from ctrl brkt. Next I removed water dispensing switch from brkt, and ice dispensing switch from brkt. And laid the broken ctrl brkt aside. I simply reassembled all parts to the new ctrl brkt, placed brkt secure to holding clips, reassembled wiring harness clip, reassembled faceplate assembly to dispenser housing, and tested water and ice dispensing.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

This one is not rocket science, however, it does take some careful "fudging" to accomplish without additional disassembly. The Ice Guide is held in place by three tabs. The tricky part is "tilting" the center tab into it's hole/slot on the ice dispenser lever (center hole), then tilting it up to snap into place.... there is a very tight tolerance here, with the opening of the ice/water dispensing unit. Be sure to "lock out" the ice maker/water dispenser, in order to be able to use the light. Once snapped in place, all is well.