JVM1630WB007 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

I used the kitchen knife to remove the inside cover on the door. There are tabs which hold it in place along the vertical sides. Then removed the two screws holding the handle in place and replaced it with the new handle. Replaced the inside door cover. Thanks for the tip on using the knife to remove the inside cover!! It was easy!

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

This repair could not have been easier! The website was great at helping to identify the problem and the part needed. Users discribing how they did the repair gave me the confidence to do it myself. I got the part the day after I ordered it, installed it and my microwave was a good as new! It was as simple as unscrewing seven screws to remove the bottom of the microwave. Then two more screws to remove the part. Unplug the broken drive, plug in the new one and screw everything back together! Don't forget to unplug your microwave before you begin.

Great website!

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

After lifting the glass turn plate, I just pulled out the plastic coupler that turns the plate. A piece just broke off underneath for no apparent reason so it couldn't turn the plate. I put on the new one and it works fine.

remove old film, apply new film. real easy. no magic

First i pick up all the tools that I thought would be needed for the door handle replacement. I looked at the exploded diagram online, but did not know how to remove the inside panel to expose the handle mounting screws? I did not want to break any more plastic parts by pulling to hard on the old weaken parts. I have 30 years experience repairing office and banking equipment but never took a microwave apart.. Next I read two reviews by two different women explaining how easy it was to take off the inside panel with a butter knife---yes a butter knife. The knife worked great and I never would have used a knife. Everything just unsnapped from there on. Thank You to those women.

I first took the filters of the exhaust and then removed the screws on the bottom of the combination microware hood fan. Once the 6 retention phillips head screws were removed from the bottom of the microwave, and the hinged bottom "door" lowered the motor was exposed. I removed the motor by removing the two phillips screws and unplugged the motor. The hardest part was finding a replacement on the net because most shops did not give enough details or pictures to know if a part was exchangable or a replacement. Partselect.com listed the parts, motor voltage, and had pictures so that I was comfortable with ordering. The part arrived the day it was scheduled to and I simple reversed the process and within 5 minutes I had the microwave motor in and back together. It is nice to do business with a place that also gives you a returns policy upfront.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.

Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.

Pulled micro off the wall, took side/top cover off to get at the cooling fan behind the control panel. Unplugged wires and removed control panel to ease the removal of the cooling fan. Two screws hold the fan. Pretty easy job.