JS968KK5CC General Electric Range - Instructions

took out old gasket and inserted new

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

Followed GE repair video

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Replaced it

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

plug in thermistor when needed

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

remove knobs and plastic nuts behind them, remove the six hex head screws holding switch plate, Remove two screws holding problem switch to plate. Swap wires one for one and reverse the process to complete repair. PS don't forget to turn off the range at the breaker panel.