JS48PPDUDB01 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Sorry I didn't do the repair but my husband did. It took him about an hour and a half. He did have to take the main part of the ice maker out of the fridge and take a couple of pieces off t oslide the tabs from the stripper arm into place. It was great. Fixed the icemaker for $22.00 dollars with no service fee. I can't imagine what they would have charged me.

Had to widen screw access hole in motor frame enough to use the phillips bit with my 12V impact driver. That worked perfectly. It took an extra two hours of trying to break the screw free without stripping it and figure out what to do when it wouldn't budge. Once I got the screw out the fix went quick and the ice maker now works great. If you have a coroded screw go straight to the impact driver.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!

Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.

Do not try to pull out the water filter by the cap. There is a button that releases the filter so you will not have to replace the cap. The cap twists onto the filter. When replacing the filter, the cap goes onto the new one.

Unpluged fridge, removed 3 screws from each control board (1 on left side and 1 on right side in freezer below ice maker compartment, unplugged and swopped out with new ones. Did one side then the other. Learned about the issue from other people on PartsSelect. Coulden't have been easier. Got parts in 2 days. Works like a charm now.

Removed the cover plates and unplugged bad boards. Hard to plug in boards after attached to cover plates. Plug in boards first then attach to mounts. Ice in 4 hours.

Easy repair. Remove 2 hex bolts. And remove.Install Bracket and replace 2 hex bolts and reinstall ice maker door to bracket. 10 minute repair.

The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.

Replaced the emitter and receiver board

Unplug the refrigerator:

I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.

Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws.
Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.

This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.

There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online.
I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.




Oliver of Riverdale, Ga

I just removed the unit and replaced the mold/'heater with the new one and re-installed. It was very easy and didn't have to turn off the refer. or empty the frozen food.
However , there were not instruction that came with the mold/heater unit. I had no problem but other do-in-uselfers may need some basic instructons
Jim

Bought new applicator