JJW8530ACB Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Took longer to turn off the power than replace the element ,, crazy the appliance company would charge $180.00 for a 3 minute job.

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

Searching the internet, I found the part I needed for the lowest price at PartSelect.com. I reviewed the exploded parts diagram for my oven at PartSelect.com to get a general overview of how the oven was assembled - then I read the customer stories to get some hints from those who had done this repair before. My oven is a combination wall oven with a microwave on top. First, I shut off the power to the oven at the breaker box and then removed the thin, long rails from each side of the oven using a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws. This then allowed me to remove the plastic faceplate from around the microwave. Opening the oven door, I found 4 philips pan head screws underneath the control panel and removed them. The control panel will then easily lift up and then out. There are 3 areas where you must disconnect electrical connections on the control module - pay a bit of attention here, but they are sized differently and are not hard to match back up appropriately when you reconnect them to the new module. These connection plugs pull straight out with no tool needed. The old control module is held in place with 4 hex-head screws I removed with a nutdriver. After you remove the old module, it is a good time to clean the inside of the clear diplay area of the front panel with a paper towel dampened with a bit of window cleaner. Allow this to dry and then install your new control module reversing the procdures you used to remove it and reverse the procedures to reinstall the control panel, the microwave faceplate and the side rails. Cut the power back on and sit back as your wife finally thinks you are the genius that you truly are........

Screws removed from below panel. The most difficult procedure was removing the panel from the oven unit to get to the part. After lifting up and out, the panel back was revealed. Disconnected old part by pulling the three connections and replacing with new part.

Shut off electricity to stove. Took out bolts, removed old element. Slide tabs out of connectors. Put new heating element in. Put bolts back in and turned electricity back on.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Took door off oven (easy - 2 screws) then toolk door apart to install new glass - also easy and only about 6 screws and removak of 4 nuts involved. Service from PartsSelect was excellent and deklivery was fast. Would use them again.

Irwin C. Cobane

Turned off power at beaker box. Opened oven door. Removed four screws from botton of display panel. Lifted display panel up and out to remove. Unplugged three wire bundles from back of circuit board. Removed four screws holding circuit board and replaced circuit board. Reassembled panel. Turned power back on. Presto.....saved $200.00 from repair estimate.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Same as the others to get to the bad clock. My old part was a circuit board which was made with white material and manufactured by RoberShaw. The new one was on a green material and by another manufacture. The new one felt a little heavier and look like there were more componets on it. However the plug-in connections and the mounting method was exactly the same. Before reassembly, I used a long handled brush to clean out most of the baking gunk that
had accumulated in this area and I used a clean wipeing cloth to clean the inside glass for the display. The best thing about this was the part came on the Thursday before
Hollowee, I installed it as soon as I got home from work. My wife started baking cookies and cup cakes for trick or
treat and all is well.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

My son removed the switch panel and unpluged
the switch. Then he replaced it with the new
switch fasten back the panel and turned the
power back on and everythiing worked fine.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.