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JGS8860BDP
JGS8860BDP Jenn-Air Range - Overview
Models starting with JGS8860BDP
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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
PartSelect #: PS2085070
Manufacturer #: 74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and an seven inch long dual wire lead with a plastic plug.
$119.20
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
In Stock
Short Oven Sensor Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003225
Manufacturer #: 12001655
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$59.08
In Stock
Burner Electrode
PartSelect #: PS11744318
Manufacturer #: WP74009336
This part has a male spade and helps your burner ignite and produce flame. If a wire lead is needed, you can purchase locally.
$53.01
In Stock
Bi-Pin Halogen Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11744355
Manufacturer #: WP74009925
This part is a replacement halogen lamp for your oven. The bulb is 25 watts and 120 volts. If your light bulb is burned out, this is the part that replaces it. Be sure to turn off power to your range ...
$32.85
In Stock
Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS11749287
Manufacturer #: WPW10162384
This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips.
$111.22
In Stock
Burner Knob
PartSelect #: PS11749601
Manufacturer #: WPW10175695
Sold individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$26.14
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11744745
Manufacturer #: WP7801P173-60
Used in the lower oven. Sold individually.
$115.55
In Stock
Insulation
PartSelect #: PS11750415
Manufacturer #: WPW10208653
Oven Wrap Insulation.
$77.41
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.51
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with JGS8860BDP
[Viewing 10 of 10]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Touchpad does not respond
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Parts Used:
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James from Berwick, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
243 of 276 people
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Parts Used:
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george from birmingham, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and then rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
Parts Used:
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Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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