JGRP17BEWB General Electric Range - Instructions

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in position underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.

Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I just took the old oven racks out and put new oven racks in.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

Open door lift door off hinges lay door face down on flat surface remove 6 phillip head screws 3 on each side lift housing out of door case remove end knob phillip head screws installed one knob insert bar attch second knob and tighten screws lay housing back into casing attach screws doing one at a time on each side slide door back on to hinges and test operate, you are done!

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.