This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. T...
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This bottom oven and deflector assembly is a durable metal panel designed to fit beneath the oven floor, protecting the bake element from spills while promoting even heat distribution for consistent c...
First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.
My husband and I simply took the burner units out of the packing, took the old ones off, put the new ones in. The new units needed to be leveled, but the leveling nuts included fit perfectly, and the entire repair took less than 15 minutes.
Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.
