JFC2290VPF4 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. Had to remove the freezer door and bottom shelve to make access to the ice maker possible.. Removed the old ice maker using a 1/4" nutdriver to loosen, but not remove, the top 2 screws. Removed the bottom support screw completely.. Detached the wiring harness from the freezer connector and lifted the ice maker up and out of the freezer. Installed the replacement ice maker in reverse order, slipping it over the loosened top screws. Tightened them, making sure the usit was level, then inserted and tightened the bottom support screw . Plugged the wiring harness into the freezer connector.. Unit produced ice within 3 hrs. .

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Loosen the top 2 screws, remove the bottom screw, unplug the wire harness, lift up the ice maker and remove. To install the new one simply reverse the removal procedure.
Note: You may want to wipe the inside of the new one to remove the protective grease or discard the first 2 cycles of ice.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

The Youtube Video was Extremely helpful--the model they worked on was a Whirlpool, and is held in with 1/4" machine screws. The KitchenAid is largely identical, but doesn't use screws. There is a plastic release you depress to free the Right Support from the cabinet. Otherwise, the process is identical to what's shown on the Youtube video. The Fridge "came with" when we bought the house, and we've already replaced the door seals using this website (another easy fix). Of course, when gently reinstalling the lid I snapped the pin on the Left Pantry Drawer support. So i've ordered that part too--i'll chalk it up to age/wear&Tear. The Left is much easier than the Right, as the Right Support has a sliding humidifier setting slide. So the Right is slightly more involved, but is also an easy fix. No tools required at all for either drawer support on the KitchenAid. Just be very patient and gentle as you re-install the drawer lid.

When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. When it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.

Snapped in new part

Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.

Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube