JES8860CAS00 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
oven not staying on. fault cod F-3 showing
Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.
Parts Used:
-
James from Cumberland, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
surface element sensor burned out
-
Donald from Missoula, MT
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would not heat
Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)
Parts Used:
-
Claude from Lakewood, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F1 Fault Code - Replace the Temperature Sensor
The sensor inserts into a slot in the back side of the range. By removing screws on the heat shield on the backside of the range, the sensor wires will be exposed can be unplugged. Then remove the screws that attach the sensor to the back inside panel in the oven. Next, pull the old sensor out. The wire leads will get caught on the insulation blanket, no big deal. Reverse the process to install the new sensor. The new sensor comes with two connector sets for the wiring. I did the whole job for less than the cost of a service call.
Parts Used:
-
Dennis from Tampa, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Upper oven shut down after reaching temperature
The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.
Parts Used:
-
Earl from Globe, AZ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The left rear burner had stopped heating.
1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.
Parts Used:
-
Louis from Morgan, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven tempature varies.
We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.
Parts Used:
-
Wilfred from Hoover, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
burner not heating up
first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)
Parts Used:
-
David from Herriman, UT
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
1 Pane of Inner Safety Glass
It was necessary to take the decorative glass and metal safety panel off using a screwdriver in order to get to the frame that holds the safety glass. It was hard to slide the new glass into the frame without help from a second person to hold the other pane in place.This was an easy repair to make I would just suggest having 2 people to hole things in place while replacing screws.
Parts Used:
-
Mary from Bellefonte, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rear left burner,went out.
I did exactly what your instruction video showed. The most important thing to remember is to TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST.
Parts Used:
-
Ruben from Port St Lucie, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
glass top,small burner did not function, open circuit in heating coil element
Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.
Parts Used:
-
James from Sacramento, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Glass top stove burner not working
OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.
Parts Used:
-
Juan from Miami, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven temperature was of & then taking along time to heat
-
Barbara from Newark, DE
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
"Hot burner" Light always On
It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.
Parts Used:
-
Stephanie from Phoenix, AZ
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
replaced gasket around inside door
It was easy because the clips were already on the new door gasket. Just had to remove old door gasket and replace it with the new one. Very simple job.
Parts Used:
-
Betty from Hamburg, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!