JCGS650SEF2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.

I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .

I JUST EXCHANGED THE BURNER AND BURNER CAP.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

I removed the two range grills. Then I removed the two chipped burner caps, and replaced them with the new burner caps. I then replaced the two range grills.

First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Just lifted old burner off with my fingers and replaced with the new one. What needs to be focused on here is the fact that Part Select has such a complete line of parts rather than the difficulty in the install.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!