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JCBP240DT2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP240DT2WW
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Burner at full red hot power despite setting
After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now the whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Matt from TAZEWELL, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Switch started arcing in the dial range of 2 to 8 in about a year.
Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Brian from HONEA PATH, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Drawer glide broken
took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.
Parts Used:
Drawer Glider - Right Side
  • TERESA from SALTVILLE, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Switch was not turning off range indicator light
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • Charles from PORTLAND, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor Kit
  • Michael from GILLETTE, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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aged burner bowls
I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Louis from Sandwich, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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burner not work
Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • SILVIA from Midlothian, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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old drip pans rusted
I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • noreen from torrington, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Drawer support broke
Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.
Parts Used:
Drawer Support
  • Charles from BOULDER, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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just needed new GE burner bowls
Only instructions I have has nothing to do with installation. But I'd like to suggest that you find a better shipping method. Placed my order on Feb. 7, received message later same day that it'd shipped. I didn't receive it until Feb. 16th -- very poor delivery service.
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Jacqueline from E WENATCHEE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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front lift burner not working and surface light on with everything off
unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .
Parts Used:
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
  • kevin from GAYLORD, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Surface burner stopped working & light indicator remained on
It took my son very little time to install control switch. Using a screw driver he removed the back panel directly behind burner units & replaced the control switch. Very easy.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
  • Cynthia from BALDWINSVILLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Stove was not getting enough power.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Nathan from Wells, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drawer sticking and not operating smoothly
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
Parts Used:
Drawer Support
  • Bill from Philadelphia, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JCBP240DT2WW
31 - 45 of 110