JCB2280HEB Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Wrong part, found the problem. Start with the thermostat, controls both when to start and stop the defrost cycle. Not the defrost heater or the timer.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Per others' descriptions of this issue, I confirmed that the fan in the upper area of the freezer was not functioning. Purchased this assembly, which had everything ready to go. Removed all existing assemblies, ice maker, wall, old fan then installed new fan assembly with old rubber bushings and plastic blades - plugged in - and ran like a champ. Reassembled all then let cool down to correct temp and reloaded frig. All parts worked great - received them day after order - very impressed. Couple hours - fairly easy repair.

Pulled out the drawers in the freezer. Loosened the four screws holding the back of freezer compartment exposing the fan. Had to disconnect and unmount the icemaker also. Disconnected and replaced the fan motor. The fan ordered didn't look the same as the original. The original was contained in a plastic housing.

replaced inlet valve per insert with part, easy

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Problem led to 3 possible problem parts, defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost control board. Defrost heater ohmed out to 31 ohms, so seemed good. Defrost thermostat was open when warm but was open after running refrigerator to get freezer side cold enough for thermostat to close, it did not I thought. So I ordered thermostat. Once part came in, I cut up a couple inches on orange and brown wires, stripped off enough to work with. I soldered new one in and heat shrunk the wires. I turned on and it seem to work and all night. Working fine right now.