JBP81SLS General Electric Range - Instructions

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

Watched video

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

This temperature sensor is very easy to replace. There are two screws inside the oven in the top middle of the back of the oven. Take these off. on the back of the stove there is a metal plate with 5 screws I believe. Take these off with a nut driver. Then you will see a white connector coming from the spot where you took the other screws off. Take the white connector apart and pull out the temperature sensor from the inside of the oven. Then put the new one in.

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.

Open the package and slide the Knobs in place. 30 seconds to place 4 knobs.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

I removed the control panel by removing 7 screws and replaced the light indicator and lens.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Replaced element control switches