JBP68SHS General Electric Range - Instructions

I had my husband fix it! Very easy for me.

It didn't take him long. The most difficult part was getting to the screws. He had to practically climb into the oven.

The parts were shipped promptly and the whole process was relatively painless!

My friend's husband came over to help. I mentioned that after unscrewing the old bake assembly unit, we would have to capture the wires or they would slip into the back. Before he even had the screws undone, the wires did, indeed, slip into the back. He then removed the back panel and retrieved the wires, pushed them back through the insulation and clipped each of them onto the back assembly. However, the wire clips kept slipping off so he eventually had to criimp the clips to keep them tight on the ends of the bake assembly. That troubled me; what if in the future one of those clips comes loose while the oven is in use? Any suggestions on how to keep these connectors on tightly?

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. ordered the part and connected the element back to the two wires replaced the two screws plugged in the stove turned on the oven and we were back in business,

First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.

Removed power plug- disconnected wire, removed cover over wires two screws, and removed old heated strip, held in by two screws inside of oven
Slide in new coil installed two screws, connected two wires replaced guard over wires, plugged in stove, cooked a rubarb pie, success

It was just a matter of removing 5 screws that attached the broiler coil to oven top. Then carefully removing coil so as not to cause wires attached to fall into the back of the oven. Needed an extra pair of hands to hold coil while i guided the wires back thru the opening. All that was left to do was to secure the broiler coil to oven. All completed in less then 30 mins. A lot easier then originally thought. And, a lot cheaper then getting a repair person to do the job.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

On the website, the heating element looked exactly the same with same measurements as the old one. However, the part I received did not match. The screw holes where the element attaches to the back were wider apart and higher. Plus, the leads curved up instead of being straight.

I first ordered the wrong part and had to call customer service. They handled the return and ordered the new piece beautifully!! The installation was really simple. Once I took out two screws holding the top down, I removed three clips holding the burner on then switched out the electrical leads. Put everything back and it worked perfectly!!

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

Opened the box removed old element with socket put new one in tightened and voila ?? Just in time for thanksgiving ??

THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME IN THE EMAIL ARE VERY GOOD. BE SURE TO TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRING.

Becuase of the fire we had used a chemical based fire extinguisher, which made a real mess in the whole main floor of the house. I removed the oven from the house and used a leaf blower to get rid of all the white chemical powder (like a baking soda of sorts). Once that issue was done, I removed the part in less than 5 minutes. Two screws to remove it and then unpluged the two wire clips from the back of the stove under the shield which also had 6 screws to remove. It took only 3 days to have a new one delivered and I installed it in less than 5 minutes. The oven works fine now. It took much longer to clean the house than fix the oven.

We ordered the part from PartSelect and received it the next day. Didn't even have to move the range out from the wall. Just unscrewed the two screws on the back wall of the stove that hold the bake element in place with a socket wrench, then pulled the old bake element and wires out about 2-3 inches so we could disconnect the old bake unit. The element was kind of hard to pull out, but after you pull it from the wires, just plug in the new bake unit, push the wires back in and put the screws back in. Oven was up and working again!

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.