JB655DK4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Disconnected power supply, removed control panel mounting screws with 1/4 inch nut driver, removed small phillips screws under control panel, pulled off control knob, then removed two phillips screws holding control switch to control panel. Verified replacement switch was identical to malfunctioning switch. Removed wires attached to old switch, one at a time, and attached to new switch as each removed. Wires don’t appear to be labeled or color coded so be sure to relocate wires one at a time. Reassembly was reverse of disassembly.

The new element didn’t come with instructions, but a previous customer had left a review on the website that he had found a helpful YouTube video. So, I also found a video that walked me right through the steps.

Replaced element control switches

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

I took the racks out . took the two screws out holding the element.removed the two wires remove the element.then cleaned the oven.put the wires on new element. Put element back in holes.replaced screws.replaced racks.worked like new. I would recommend partselect to any one thanks Lewis

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

Found instructions on you tube. Easy as I,2, 3. Total of eight screws to remove, then unplug and replace the handle. First kill the power to your range before starting the repair.

I replaced the element by taking out the screws that held the old element. Removed the old element but the wires went back into the insulation and I tried fishing them out. They just wouldn't come back down after much prying. I ended up taking the back panel off and pushing them back into the oven. Once I did that the replacement was easy.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool

Watched video on you tube. Removing/reinstalling all of the screws/bolts took longer than the actual repair.. Took 23 minutes total from turning power off, repairing and turning back on. Super easy!