JB645DK5WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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Right front heating element was either off or on high, no in between
Unplug range and pull it out to access the back. Pull knob off bad control at front making sure to check the orientation of the rod the knob goes on—it matters—and remove two brass screws. Then remove the four hex screws holding the top metal panel on at the back of the range (two have washers) and lift the panel off to expose the controls. (I then took a photo of the switch in situ to remember its orientation and how the wires were connected.) Use pliers to remove wires, then connect up and install the new switch, and put the brass screws back in at front to hold it in place. I used the pliers to turn the rod to the correct orientation before putting the knob back on. Reinstall the back panel with four hex screws. Plug the range in and test.
FYI the directions for accessing the infinite switch that came with the range also had me remove two screws under each side of the front of the control panel, but as far as I could tell that wasn’t necessary.
FYI the directions for accessing the infinite switch that came with the range also had me remove two screws under each side of the front of the control panel, but as far as I could tell that wasn’t necessary.
Parts Used:
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Mary from KISSIMMEE, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
14 of 15 people
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Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
22 of 43 people
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Baking element burned out
Removed two screws and unplugged electrical connectors to the baking element. It was that easy.
Parts Used:
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Duane from MANCHESTER, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
12 of 14 people
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
Parts Used:
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Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
11 of 11 people
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rear supports were broken
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
Parts Used:
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TED from herndon, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
11 of 12 people
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No clock, oven control buttons don't work, stove top work ok, tested power was ok to the control board.
Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel
Parts Used:
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David from SANTA CLARA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
9 of 10 people
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Heating element always went high, even when controller was set low.
Unplug the range, remove the screws on the top third of the rear cover, remove two screws from the controller on the front side of the range, hold the rear cover open and pull the controller out of the back of the range, then unplug the two connectors from old controller. Plug the connectors into new controller, secure controller with screws on the front of the range, replace the screws on the rear cover, plug the range in.
Parts Used:
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M from DOUGLAS, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
9 of 10 people
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Oven on range did not work properly
My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.
Parts Used:
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Dinah from Juneau, AK
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
10 of 13 people
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Broken Liight Socket
Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.
Parts Used:
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Rchard from Derry, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
14 of 26 people
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Oven not holding a consistant temperature. Found the replacement part easily on you website.Thanks to your photo.
First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.
Parts Used:
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Cindy from Murrells Inlet, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
10 of 14 people
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Replaced radiant burner element glass top range
First; turn off breaker to stove.
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!
Parts Used:
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Denise from SENECAVILLE, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8 of 9 people
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
Parts Used:
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John from Gaston, OR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 22 people
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back burner not getting hot
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
Parts Used:
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William from Shenandoah, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 10 people
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Left front dual burner only runs on highest heat
Pull oven away from the wall. Unplug from 220VAC outlet. Remove six (6) black screws from the upper back panel. Remove two (2) screws and washers from top of upper back panel. Rotate panel down and pull away from the back.
Remove burner control knob. Remove two (2) screws from burner control. Pull burner control backward through the open back. Disconnect upper and lower cable bundles.
Connect lower and upper cable bundles. Push control knob post through the front on the range. Install two (2) screws to hold the burner control. Install burner control knob and turn to the off position.
Reinstall upper back panel. Secure with two (2) silver screws with washers. Install six (6) black screws.
Plug in range 220VAC cable. Slide oven back into place.
Tested burner on high small burner, low small burner, high large burner, low large burner. All tested fine, burner cycled on/off cycles as expected.
Remove burner control knob. Remove two (2) screws from burner control. Pull burner control backward through the open back. Disconnect upper and lower cable bundles.
Connect lower and upper cable bundles. Push control knob post through the front on the range. Install two (2) screws to hold the burner control. Install burner control knob and turn to the off position.
Reinstall upper back panel. Secure with two (2) silver screws with washers. Install six (6) black screws.
Plug in range 220VAC cable. Slide oven back into place.
Tested burner on high small burner, low small burner, high large burner, low large burner. All tested fine, burner cycled on/off cycles as expected.
Parts Used:
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Steve from SCITUATE, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 7 people
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Element out LF
Unplug stove.2 screws out ,lift top ,disconnect bad element, connect new element, put top down .2 screws in .plug stove back in...EASY PEASY
Parts Used:
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Brian from HAGERSTOWN, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 13 people
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