This 9-inch radiant element sits under your cooktop and heats your pots and pans while you cook. If it’s not heating up or cooking unevenly, it’s time for a replacement. It’s the larger burner on your...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace the temperature sensor...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
The electronic oven control board manages heating and temperature functions in wall ovens. Modified wiring may require professional installation. Unplug the oven or shut off the circuit breaker before replacing.
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
Looking to fix your range drawer? You're in the right place. First things first, the GE Front Drawer Support is the key to maintaining stability'and without it, your range drawer might wobble or becom...
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4 questions answered by our experts.
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Marcelino
January 10, 2020
The inside burner it's not working
For model number JB630DF4WW
Hello Marcelino,
Thank you for your question. Assuming you are referring to the inner ring of the dual radiant surface burner, you would need to replace the burner itself under part PS2321567 to fix the issues. We hope this helps!
What voltage is applicable for the part WB30T10133?
For model number JB630DF4WW
Hi Xuan, thank you for your inquiry. The part number PS2321567, which is a 9-inch dual radiant surface element, is designed for a voltage of 240 Volts. It has two wattage settings: 3100 watts and 1300 watts. Glad to be of help!
The hot cooktop light stays on and the largest burner doesn’t heat properly
For model number JB630DF4WW
Hi Donna, thank you for the question. If your cooktop indicator light stays on, it means that the contact in one of your burners switches is stuck closed. Your largest burner is not heating properly, so its infinite switch is most probably a fault. The right front surface burner infinite switch for your model is part number PS2339825. Good luck with this repair!
The hot cooktop light stays on even though all burners are off. The largest burner heats up for a few minutes then quickly goes off. What would be causing this?
For model number JB630DF4WW
Hi Donna, thank you for getting in touch. Based on our research, the most likely cause of this issue is a faulty surface burner switch, part number PS2339825, which may need to be replaced. We hope this sorts out your problem!
Turned off circuit breaker to range. Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed. The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved. Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals. Reinstalled new element and metal backing. Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet. Reinstalled drawer and racks. Turned on circuit breaker. Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
