JB620GF2SA General Electric Range - Instructions

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

First I shut off power to the unit. Then I removed the oven shelves. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place using a socket ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the element out a few inches. I had some clothes pins with me because I read how some people had problems with the wire leads slipping back into the unit insulation. When the terminals and wire leads were exposed, I clamped the clothes pins on the wires between the leads and the oven wall so the wires could not be pulled back into the wall. Then I disconnected the wires from the old element. Next, I connected the new element to the wires, removed the clothes pins and gently nudge the element terminals back into the oven wall. Then I put the screws back to secure the element. Finally, I turn the power on and set the oven to 400 degrees. When I saw the element get red hot in a couple of minutes, I knew it was fixed. I've used it several times since then.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Turn off power to oven,remove two screws holding element in place,pull element forward approx. 1" and unplug wires,remove element. Install new element in reverse order of above.

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

I unplugged the stove then took the oven racks out. Then I took a nutdriver and took out the 2 screws that held the Bake Element in place. Pulled the 2 prong's out of the oven and removed the wires from the tips. They pulled right off.
Took out the new Bake Element and reversed the process. Attached the 2 wires put the 2 prong's back into the holes and screwed the 2 holding screws back in. Plugged the Stove back in and turned her on. Doing it myself saved me $150.00.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.

Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.