JB620DR2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

First, UNPLUG OVEN. Then, remove oven door and place stove on work bench! JUST KIDDING!! Honestly, the repair would be easy if that were possible.The hardest part is kneeling, standing, hunching over, twisting your body holding flashlight in your mouth, etc...THEN, trying to re-attach wires screws etc. The repair is straight forward. unscrew all screws holding element in, pull element out about 6 inches, detach wires, and re-attach. Simple right? Maybe if you're 1 foot 2 inches tall or have 6 foot arms

1) REMOVE ELECTRIC PLUG FROM OUTLET. 2) Pull oven away from wall. 3) Remove the 3 machine screws holding in the top piece of sheet metal. 4) remove top piece of back sheet metal 5) pull knob of the front of the switch. 6) remove the two screws holding the switch to the front of stove. 7) remove wires (needle nose is helpful) one at a time and put them in the same location on the new switch. 8) put new switch into location on the stove and screw in the two front screws. 9) replace sheet metal on the back and screw in the 3 machine screws that hold it in. 10) plug in stove and move it back into position 11) put the knob back on the front and test it to make sure it works ok. 12) be sure to remove power if you need to do open the stove again to correct anything.

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Took me a second to remember that YouTube is just as handy a tool as what I've got in my toolbox. The installation of the new glass was as easy as apple pie. Anybody that has ever used a screwdriver could manage that fix and do so single handedly. PartSelect.com came through with an easy-to-navigate website, a very reasonable price range and anything you could ask for to help fix whatever has broken. I quoted a gentleman in my town, a handyman, and he came back with a price tag of over $300 for parts and labor! Even with tax, shipping and the new glass I came in well under $100, and the labor was next to nothing. If i ever have to replace or fix something in my house again, I'll be using them, Without a doubt. Thanks for everything, dudes. Cheers!

Unplug the stow.(Important!)
Remove the knobs pulling out from front of the stove.
Remove the 2 screws from each knob.
From rear.(3 big 4 small screws to be removed)
Removing the 7 screws pull up the upper panel get access to switches.
One at a time remove the wiring from old switch attach to new switch. Screw the upper panel. Install the knobs.
Plug the stove.
You are done!
Thanks to PartSelect for their quick response.

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

Turne off power to range..pulled oven out..Took top back panel off with nut driver. 4screws .. Took picture of control board....removed bad control board with Phillips driver...4 screws....installed New board...removed 1 connection at a time and replaced in New board..Turned power on to test new board...check picture to make sure connections are correct...turn off power...put back panel back on...put range back in place...turn power back o n...done ..approximate time 15 to 20 minutes..

Unplugged the oven, took out old element and replaced with new element. It was really simple and easy to do, didn't even need my husband who is not mechanically inclined.