JB256RM1SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Drawer sticking and not operating smoothly
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
Parts Used:
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Bill from Philadelphia, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Oven temp wouldn't regulate.
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Ronald from Crumpler, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Stove overheated with an F2 error
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Parts Used:
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Richard from PHOENIX, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Just didn't work no pwr to it
Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.
Parts Used:
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Jerry from HOPEWELL, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven would shut down while baking. Stove top would work.
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
Parts Used:
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Tom from ELIZABETHTON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven could not be turned off once settings were turned on except by unplugging hookup.
Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.
Parts Used:
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Charles from BENNETTSVILLE, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Broken drawer glider
Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.
Parts Used:
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James from RANCHO MIRAGE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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lights blown out
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 14 people
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Defective switch
Replaced element control switches
Parts Used:
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Mary from EDENTON, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Oven would not get come up to temperature
I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
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Arthur from INDIANAPOLIS, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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broiler unit went out
less then ten minutes, used a electric screw driver and in a snap, finished, I always buy my parts on line at parts select my stove is old but in good condition except parts give out sometimes and I just order part and keep on cooking.
Parts Used:
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helen from PRINCETON, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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My electronic control board went out so I could not use my oven. My oven light blew as well.
I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.
Parts Used:
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Stella from PADUCAH, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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lens snapped off on the inside-plug was left loose
popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.
Parts Used:
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RICKEY from MONTROSE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
Parts Used:
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Anil from Milpitas, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Bad Line fault displayed on range clock
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
Parts Used:
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Vincent J Paola, from GREENWEL SPGS, LA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person
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