J335*02 General Electric Range - Instructions

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

Simple repair that was complicated by not being able to remove the oven door, leaving a long reach to the element connections in the back of the oven. Other than the accessibility issue, the repair is easy. Remove two scews, pull the element out about 3 inches to access and unscrew the screws holding the wires to the element. Then reverse the process with the new element. But, because of the long reach, there were alot of dropped screws and cussing.

Before you start, make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped, which can explain element not heating.
In my case, the toaster element was ok, which tells us that the oven is receiveing electric current.
1) Take the grills out so you have free access
2) Remove the door - this model just pull it up to let it free
3) remove the 2 screws securing the element on backwall of the oven and gently pull the element out
4) if you have a multimeter:
a) set it to AC, greater than 300 V
b) use your alligator clips, attach the clips
to the contacts of the element
c) briefly turn the oven on: expect to read between 230 and 260 volts
5) remove the screws securing the old element
6) install the new element;
7) secure the element back to the backwall
8) turn the oven briefly on and feel the heating element: should come warm pretty quic;
- Job done -

When you remove the screws securing the wire to the old element, make sure the wires are not cracked, or interrupted.

Otherwise, a real simple and easy fix.

Specs of this element are what I missed but here they are:
Resitence : 25.5 Ohms
Volts: 230 - 260Volst
Power : 2050 to 2650 Watts
The power depends on the voltage, so make sure you dont have it too low (less than 220 ) or too much (yeah, 260V is nearing upper limits)

Finding the replacement part on partselect.com was easy. The search feature brought me to a diagram of the bake element and offered precise grid measurements to assure me it was the correct part.

Be sure to completely unplug your stove before doing anything. The only tools I used were a small nut driver, a standard pliers and a flashlight (and a cushion for my old knees, ha).

Installation was easy, but you have to be very careful to not bend the little prongs were you attach the element to the stove wires... they bend pretty easily, so hold them tight or hold them in a pliers firmly but without crushing them. Drive the two screws to attach the element to the wires; then, drive the two screws to hold the element face plate against the rear of the oven, and viola, you're done!

Thanks, partselect - website, price, packaging and shipping were perfect! Also, I got several good tips from the feedback of other customers that were very helpful. That is a nice feature of your website and a good customer service.

First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other side. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

Was able to slide it right in

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

turn off electricity to stove and simply remove the screws from the heating element and put new element back in place .put screws in and turn power back on and test.

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. connected the wires to the new element. pushed the element back in place the screwed it back to the back of the stove.

Removed the plug from wall socket.
Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position.
Remove Baking shelves.
Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed.
Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw.
After both wires are removed, remove the old element.
Install the new Element in reverse.
Very Easy!