IVS2 - Instructions

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

Unplugged refrigerator, Removed lower back panel, Removed fan from fan bracket, Installed new fan to fan bracket, Installed new wire assembly to fan, Replaced back panel. Plugged refrigerator back in and it works great. Only tool needed was 1/4" socket.

"Popped it in".

First removed the three screws at the top that holds the door at the top. Removed the worn out lower door cam after removing one screw. Did the same on the door closing cam (in fact this cam has worn and broken into two pieces). Replaced with the new ones, put the screws back, mounted the door and replaced the three screws on top. The door closed perfectly.
Since this did not help with keeping the refrigerator cold, a day later I had to vacuum the dust off the coils (on the underside of the refrigerator) and thaw the ice from the freezer compartment clearing the ducts to re-initiate the proper flow of air between the two compartments (I learnt on the internet that cold air from the freezer is drawn to maintain the temperature in the refrigerator compartment). The faulty refrigerator door ended up icing our frost free referigerator's freezer compartment and the air ducts in it. Therefore I had to simply turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, thaw everything and restart! I know nothing about refrigerators. Just did it after visiting your site and a couple of other sites. Saved me about $300!!

I FOLLOWED A U TUBE VIDEO. IT WAS ALMOST PERFECT FOR MY SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!