IF36BNDFSF Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

The peg on the door broke off the left end cap. This seems to be a bad design on the part of amana. It's happened twice now. Very fragile. The repair was so easy that my wife tackled it while I was at work because I was too busy to do it. She said the only problem was removing all the trays, shelves, and drawers out of the fridge and putting that back together which is a bit cumbersome and tricky. The actual part removal and replacement is straight forward once the other stuff is removed to get to the screws that are holding the end cap on. When I did it for the right end cap it was a bit more challenging because there were more parts that had to come off and go back on. I am happy that this can be easily repaired, but not happy with amana that the sliding drawer and door are so susceptible to breakage at the two pegs. This is a flaw in the design.

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

The part arrived as expected. I detached the existing mullion rail using a socket wrench and disconnected the wires, which was as easy as pulling two pieces apart. Then I connected the wires to the new rail, slid the part into place and used the socket wrench to secure it. As easy as could be and good as new! In total, it took a matter of minutes.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Pulled the unit from the wall, and unplugged, and turned off the water. Removed the back plate at the bottom of the refrigerator to gain access to the water inlet valve. Disconnected three tubes and two electrical connections and reconnected to the new inlet valve. Reassembled the back plate. Then turned everything back on and checked for leaks. Re-Installed the back plate. This was a fairly easy repair. The only problem I had was getting the water lines off the old valve. It was a bit of a struggle for me. I did watch a couple of you tube videos before I got started.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.