IBD550PRS00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions
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Oven wouldn't heat after running self cleaning cycle
I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.
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Jerry from Lebanon, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 7 people
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Oven would not heat
1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat
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Ray from GOLD CANYON, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Oven temperature did match target temp entered on control panel.
I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.
All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.
Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.
All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.
Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.
Parts Used:
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Richard from EVANSTON, WY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Had to replace the bake element
Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going
Parts Used:
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Roxanne from MARTELL, NE
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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oven would not heat up, after self cleaning
Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.
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Richard from Chicago, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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The interior oven door glass was broken
I found some of the feedback posted on this site very helpful. Taking photos as I went along was also very helpful in remembering how to put it back together. There are several over-lapping pieces to the door and you have to be careful to put things back together in the correct order. Lining up the screw holes on the hinges with the door is also a little tricky.
Parts Used:
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Dante from Apex, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Bottom element not working properly
Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel
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Stephen from CONYERS, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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YouTube
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Janet from GALLATIN, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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The bottom bake element died
Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.
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Judith from QUINCY, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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My oven racks were badly discolored, because I left them in the oven during self cleaning
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Domer from ST PETERSBURG, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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door hinges worn out oven door not fully closing
Remove and replace oven door hinges. Disassembly of oven door unit required. Step by step instructions available on youtube.
Parts Used:
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Tony from HAYDEN, ID
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 9 people
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Oven wouldn't heat after a self clean mode.
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
Parts Used:
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Robert from Enola, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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There was an annoying buzzing sound coming from the bottom of the stove
I pinpointed the location of the sound, took off the protective plate, felt it vibrating against the plate. I disconnected the power supply, and looked at the wirings and how it was connected, saw some burning residue surrounding the area of the Transformer. Then figured that I could simply replace this. I wrote down the Model and Serial number of the Stove, searched online, found this site. Located the part on the diagram, then simply ordered it. My part arrived in 3 days, and had the part replaced the next day. Couldn't be a smoother fix. Thanks.
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Craig from Snoqualmie, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 15 people
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inner oven glass cracked
With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.
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Bill from Sedalia, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 6 people
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blower noisy and slow to turn
First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.
Parts Used:
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STEPHEN from CORAM, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 6 people
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