Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
9 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
2
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Tanta
January 6, 2020
What could be the problem if it sounds like you tub is making a grinding noise in the wash and spin cycles
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Good Day Tanta. Thank you for your question in regards to your unit (Model Number HTWP1200D0WW). Based on our research, you may need to replace one or more of the following parts in order to solve your issue: 1) Tub Seal - PartSelect Number PS4704237. 2) Tub Bearing - PartSelect Number PS271510. 3) Drive Pulley - PartSelect Number PS1482349. 4) Shaft & Drive Tube Assembly - PartSelect Number PS3652839. You can order these parts either online at our website www.PartSelect.com or by calling us by phone at 888-260-4310. Best Regards.
2 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Mark
February 13, 2020
How do you adjust blue and red suspension rods
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your question. Here is a link to one of our videos from our website that you may reference on how to install the rods, https://www.partselect.com/PS3654191-GE-WH16X10159-Rear-Suspension-Rod-Spring-Assembly-Red.htm?SourceCode=4&SearchTerm=HTWP1200D0WW&ModelNum=HTWP1200D0WW. The washer in the video may not show exactly like the one you have, but it will give you a general idea on how to install the part. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
2 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Newt
February 22, 2020
No spin cycle and a red light flashing on a connector on the computer board that is on top of the motor
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty Lid switch with wire harness PS1482372(the wires could have just come loose so check that first) and/or a possible loose or a faulty belt PS1482278 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage or test with a multimeter, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Washer will not start in any wash cycle just makes a humming noise, If I rotate to spin it will spin in any cycle, timer will shut it off at the end of spin cycle.
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Hello William, Thank you for the question. This could be an indication the Drive Motor is faulty and to weak to start to spin on its own. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hello Wanda, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model number you have provided and show the control knobs on the left hand side as part# PS1482289, sold individually. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order for a part, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!