The SmartWater MWF Filter is a new and improved filter that replaces the obsolete GWF filter. The MWF Cartridge reduces more contaminants, and is easier to install.
NOTE: If you are replacing the ...
This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a fil...
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Questions And Answers for HSS25GFTABB
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Rodney
February 4, 2020
How long should it take to get to 40 degrees
For model number HSS25GFTABB
Hello Rodney, Thank you for the question. It normally takes 4 - 6 hours of running before it will get close to the correct temperature. We hope this helps.
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Freddie
December 28, 2022
water line for water dispenser keeps freezing up , any tips are repairs to correct this issue
For model number HSS25GFTABB
Hello Freddie, thank you for your question. If the Temperature Sensor PS304103 is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. Also, the Main Board PS16729744 controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. f broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced. We hope this helps.
Where due i find a reset??? looked on the motor board and cant find one
For model number HSS25GFTABB
Hello and thank you for writing.
There is no reset on the boards.
The best way is a hard reset. Go to your breaker box and shut the breakers for your unit off, wait 5 minutes and then turn the breaker to on again. That should hopefully that will clear any problems. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Kay
May 28, 2023
I need a shelf bracket for the third shelf facing the fridge would be the right hand side
For model number HSS25GFTABB
Hi Kay, thank you for the question. The shelf bracket you are looking for is a cantilever shelf, part number PS305280. We hope this helps!
Refrigerator works great for a couple of days and then just stops working like the compressor is not starting. I unplug it for a little bit and then plug it back in and it works fine again for another few days.
For model number HSS25GFTABB
Hi Denise, thank you for the great question. We have found that there may be an issue with the run capacitor. You may have to replace run capacitor, part number PS11764031. We hope that helps!
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The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.