This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a fil...
Replacement icemaker kit - electronic. This kit includes a 4 pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connector, tube and fill cup.
$336.94
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Questions And Answers for HSM25GFTCSA
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Douglas
July 2, 2021
I have owned this refrigerator for about 10 yrs. I have never used the ice maker but just recently hooked it up with a new GE filter and the filter started leaking water and there was no flow to the ice maker. I checked the filter was tight and properly installed. It seems as though I am not getting flow at the filter.
For model number HSM25GFTCSA
Hello Douglas, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the Refrigerator Water Filter Head and Tubing for damage causing the leak. This is the part the filter would attach to and send water tot he Ice Maker. We hope this helps!
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Casey
August 13, 2021
I replaced the thermostat, temperature probe, and the defroster because it was frozen over. Now it works but it is defrosting way too often, can this be adjusted?
For model number HSM25GFTCSA
Hello Casey, Thank you for your inquiry. The defrost cycle is actually controlled by the control board on your model, based on the information received from the thermostat and sensor. You can also check the evaporator and condenser coils for dust build up, which would also cause the refrigerator to go into defrost mode more often. We would also recommend checking your evaporator fan as well, which you can do with a multimeter. Good luck with your repair.
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Christine
18 days ago
Does this model have a temperature setter?
For model number HSM25GFTCSA
Hello Christine, thank you for your inquiry. The temperature of your model can be adjusted through the dispenser control board, part number PS1155334. Glad to be of assistance!
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
