HDL600SBLWH General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?

Removed 3 torx screws on the control panel. Removed two more regular screws from the dryer opening. This allows removal of the top. Removed some panels from the back to access where belt feeds through the motor. Found the belt snapped in two inside.

Now that I knew what the problem was I found partselect.com on Google. Ordered the part friday morning with ground. The belt arrived SATURDAY MORNING! I didn't even know fedex would deliver ground shipments on Saturday. Less than 24 hours later I had it. AWESOME.

Removed the front panel by removing two hex bolts to allow me to drape the belt over the drum. Not having seen how the belt was originally around the tensioner and the bad diagrams included with the dryer, it took some figuring to get it back on right. But we did it and we're back in business. I will absolutely buy from PartSelect.com again!

Had to skip holes for tabs on corners. could not stretch gasket to fit the holes. Cut off the unused tabs in order to close door. Used pliers to push tabs in holes. New gasket fit sufficently and is better than old cracked gasket.

I followed the instructions in your detailed online video. Fortunately on my model there was a removable panel on the back of the dryer which provided easy access to install the drive belt on the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Great video and very easy repair.

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

Per suggestion of "Parts Select", I replaced the "high limit thermostat"....very simple task on the dryer: 1 - unplug from power source; 2 - remove screws securing top to front (open door, screws located beneath lip of unit); 3 - tilt top up allowing access to everything; 4 - remove connections to 'thermostat' (note which wires go where); 5 - loosen screws securing thermostat to unit and remove thermostat; 6 - vacuum any and all lint while unit is apart; 7 - install new thermostat and put everything back together; 8 - test dryer to see if repairs worked!

I just pulled out the old white frame by hand and replaced it with a new one ordered online. No tools were needed. Simply easily, anyone can do with no required skills.

This saved the appliance from possible damage due to poor ventilation and also save the cost of a handyman to fix the problem.

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that

Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!

Very simple. Took the old 1 out and placed new filter in.
The impressive thing was I ordered the part on a Saturday and received it on the following Wednesday. Thank you! I will for sure recommend your site to my family/friends.

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

This is kind of embarrassing but ... Originally checked this site for what to get for the symptom and said 61% of time was high limit thermostat which was fairly cheap (14.95) but assumed with my luck, it would be the more expensive part the heating element coil with housing, so ordered that. (It was second on the list) Received it in no time, like less then 48 hrs. Was told when a friend stopped by that I shouldnt of ordered that, it was probably a thermostat as that is what they had to replace on theirs. So I said ok, I could always send the first thing back, so ordered the thermostat. It came quickly again. Took it out of the package and laid it down to change clothes to take the dryer apart and could not find where I laid it. Spent all evening looking and never did find it! So I ordered another one. (Figured by this time PartSelect was thinking this woman is crazy but good for business) Again it came quickly. Got it on fine but when I got to check the old one with the ohm meter (which I borrowed), nothing wrong with it. Nor with any of the other 4 thermostats. Finally took the drum off ( thanks to Youtube video for instructions) and obviously it was the initial part that I had ordered that needed replaced. Was a bit awkward to remove all the screws to get to it but not bad. Plugged everything back in and got the machine back together and works wonderfully! Lessons learned: 1st check the elements with an ohm meter (I will definitely be investing in one) 2nd do not open package until ready to use it especially after a bad day at work and 3rd go with initial gut instinct! I was very pleased with Part Select service!

All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.

Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.

The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.