GZS22IBNBHTS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed steps found on YouTube. The only missing instruction was to remove the small retaining clip from the water tube inlets to allow you to press the retaining circle down to release the tube

After shutting off the h2o, I unplugged the refrigerator. Using the nut driver, I removed the cardboard backing. Then I removed the fitting where the inlet line to the ice maker and pried the old tubing from the unit. I then undid the clasp about 1/2 way up the back and removed the section that went through the back to the ice maker.
I then reassembled everything and plugged in the refrigerator as well as turning on the water.
Keep in mind that because h2o and electricity are involved. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO h2o LEAKS.

1. I unplugged the refrigerator/ freezer
2. Turned off water supply
3. Removed the screws that held the cardboard skirt in place
4. Unplugged the water tube from the push connect
5. Removed the screws around the water inlet to the ice maker
6. Remove the water fill tube
7. Install new water fill tube and put all the screws and plates back where they go

The three bulbs would then remain on, so I loosened them to keep them off. I didn't know that the cooling system also would stop when the door was open, so for two days only the side freezer was operational. When I discovered that, I hot glued the switch button off, while I searched for a replacement part. The replacement part was an exact duplicate. A simple prying out of the old switch - using a screwdriver, and the reconnection of the two wires connectors to the new part, and clicking back in place ... done. Seriously, it took two minutes.

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

Freezer section defroster heater was inoperative.
turned off the refrigerator by turning the right knob in top rear refrigerator to 0.

Used hose on a vacuum sweeper blower side to feed warm air into the bottom rear section. Removed the top plastic panel behind the ice maker to allow air flow to exit through the fan to defrost the freezer coils.

Placed a flat oven pan into the area beside the vacuum hose and sponged up the melted frost water. After 30 minutes, water ceased to drain.

Removed freezer shelves, and 5 screws on rear freezer wall. It took about 2 minutes to remove the heater & braw assembly at the bottom of the coils. 2 screws have to be removed and wires just clip off and back on again. Replaced the 2 screws.

Replace rear coil wall cover and turn on the refrigerator to 5 to 7 and replace cover and shelves.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

This was a great opportunity to clean the bottom 3 shelves. I unplugged the frig.,disconnected both water lines, unscrewed water tank, pulled water lines out, put new tank in and pushed new water lines in and connected them, and plugged frig. back in. I grabbed my glass to get a drink and feeling proud but no water. I thought about this for a while and came to the conclusion that the freezer was set to 9 and the water had frozen in the value in the door. I dropped the temp. in the freezer from 9 to 3 and after about 2 days the water worked just fine. I emptied the ice because it was clumped into one big piece. I heard the ice maker going to town all day long. I called for ice later and the motor that dispenses the ice was humming and no ice was dropping. I thought about it and could not come up with the answer so I called tech. at GE and he was no help. So I solved one problem and now I have another that I don't have an answer to. My last attempt is to remove the motor housing to see if gears are jammed or something else.

unplug refrige take off light cover unplug lightbar and take lightbar off bracket put new LED lightbar back on the bracket and attatch back on back wall of freezer put light cover back on plug in refrige done.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

Used a putty knife it pry off old switch, unplugged old switch from wire harness, replaced new 1 in, snapped back in place. Took about 2 minutes.

Super easy. Hardest part was popping the plastic covers off without breaking them. I had to use a butter knife to get under it & lift it just enough
to grab it & pull easy until it turned loose.

Very easy repair, 3 screws to remove motor assembly and 3 screws/1 nut to remove motor from housing. Reverse order to replace. VERY EASY repair!