GY397LXUS03 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

Easy repair for anyone!
First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel).
-Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both.
-Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip.
-The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside.
-Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue.
-Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly.
- Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!

1. Open oven door to first detent, then pull it up off the hinges.
2. Pull oven out from counter 10-12 inches.
3. Hinges are accessible from the outside of the oven.
4. Remove 2 screws on each hinge and remove old hinges.
5. Put new hinges in place and try to insert mounting screws.
6. Wonder why screws won't start in threads.
7. Examine new hinges and notice they are not threaded for the screws.
8. Screws are not self-tapping, so go to basement and get tap & die set.
9. Use 10-24 tap to make threads in new hinges.
10. Put new hinges in place and insert mounting screws. Tighten.
11. Pull hinges to first detent and put oven door on hinges.
12. Push oven back into place in counter.

No instructions with part, so I had to look up on internet. This took more time than installing it. Think basic instructions should come with the expensive part.

Put a new one in.

Shut off breaker, assure zero energy. Using phillips screwdriver remove old element, unplug wires from element. Reconnect wires to new element, secure screws. Assure all tools removed and people are clear before re-energizing power to range. I was not happy with the packaging, the new element came in a box with no protective packing material!

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

took the old one out (two phillips head screws)and put the new one in. done. took about 5-6 minutes.

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!