GX5FHTXVB06 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First and foremost shut off the water supply to the Ice maker. Some recommend unplugging the refrigerator or disabling the circuit breaker to the refrigerator. Then after emptying the freezer remove the freezer door by loosening the four hex head screws and lift the door straight up and set it off to the side.You can then remove the lower basket. Now locate the clamps located at the rear sides of the inner basket and use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the tabs toward the outside of the side clamps while pulling up at the same time and releasing the clamp. Now repeat this procedure on the opposite side of the inner basket. The inner basket can then be pulled out being careful to not damage the roller tracts or gear rollers. Three hexhead screws secure the ice maker to the wall. The screw under the ice maker must be removed while the two on top just loosened. The electrical plug is removed by depressing the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and then pulling outward. Carefully lift the ice maker upward and out from the two upper hex head screws. You can then install the replacement icemaker by reversing the procedure.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

The can holder was worthless for our family. I lifted out the bin and replaced it with the new bin that can hold gallons of milk.

well, first, after calming down i removed the glass from my sink (this took a half hour). then i went to the computer and looked for jenn-air parts. the part-select site came up. the site was very easy to use and although i usually leave things like this for my husband to do i decided to order the part myself, which i did.
the trick was finding something on hand to cover the tops of the crispers which were both full of vegetables. i innovated and used a shallow broiler pan and its lid which covered 90% of both the crispers. the part came in five days unwrapping the part was easy, cleaned it with windex (no sink soaking this time) and inserted it on top of crispers............totally easy!!!!!

I just had to exchange the bucket, right part the first time.

Snapped new cover on.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.