This center crisper drawer rail supports the edges of refrigerator crisper drawers, ensuring smooth sliding and proper alignment. At 13.5 inches long, it fits between the drawers on the shelf frame. Q...
This crisper drawer cover support is for refrigerators.
Crisper drawer cover support supports the crisper drawer lid.
Wear work gloves to protect your hands when installing this part.
This shelf frame is an essential component for maintaining the organization and functionality of your refrigerator’s crisper or pantry area. It serves as the sturdy base for the glass shelf above the ...
This modular ice maker assembly replaces worn-out units to restore ice production in refrigerators. It includes the ice mold and control device but excludes the cover, ice level arm, wire harness, and...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
If your fridge door is sweating or hard to open and close, the gasket might need replacing. This gray magnetic gasket helps seal the door tightly to keep cold air in and warm air out. It runs along al...
This electronic control board is a critical component in refrigerator systems, responsible for regulating temperature settings and managing cooling and defrost cycles. If your appliance is experiencin...
Sold individually. Crisper drawer is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part that fits some bottom-freezer Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, Maytag and Whirlpool refrigerators.
T...
Running out of space in your fridge door? This clear, shallow bin is perfect for organizing jars, bottles, and small items. It’s made from sturdy plastic and fits right into the door—no tools needed. ...
This is a replacement pan glide for your refrigerator. The pan glide can be found attached to the refrigerator shelf, and allows the pan to slide in and out efficiently. If your refrigerator pan will ...
$14.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GX2FHDXVT02
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Mark
January 13, 2020
My refridgerator stopped auto defrost, and i have continuity through the heating element. What do i do now ?
For model number GX2FHDXVT02
Hello Mark,
Thank you for your question. Our sources suggest replacing the drain tube kit under part PS8691807 for your model to fix the defrosting issues. We hope this helps!
Hi Don,
Thank you for your question. If the freezer section is too warm, make sure that the freezer door is not left open too long and the door gasket is sealing properly. If the gasket is not sealing, it will need to be replaced. If the gasket is fine, check the capacitor. If it is not working correctly the compressor will not start and the refrigerator will start to warm up. Before removing and testing the capacitor for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting, unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet. The capacitor carries a charge. To discharge the capacitor, use a screwdriver with an insulated handle and place the metal portion of the screwdriver across the terminals for a few seconds. Then place the probes from the multimeter onto the capacitors terminals. The reading you should receive will vary from model to model, and it may be indicated on the outside of the capacitor, or in your owner’s manual. If your test does not produce the reading the manufacturer recommends, you will need to replace the capacitor. If your tests do produce the recommended readings you may have a defective compressor, which will need to be tested by a qualified professional as it is a live circuit test. We hope this helps!
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
