This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This part is the replacement suspension rod and spring assembly for your washer. The rod is approximately 25 inches long and is sold individually. The suspension rod and spring works like a shock abso...
Are you struggling with a malfunctioning washing machine? We have just the solution you need'the GE Drain Hose. This simple but essential part is tailor-made for washing machines, tasked with safely d...
Having trouble with your GE washer? Our Nut Hub could be just the solution you need. This little device has a big job ? it tightly secures your washer hub to the gear case shaft. Its accuracy helps yo...
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15 questions answered by our experts.
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Darryl
February 12, 2020
My lid locks and unlocks when trying to wash top load
For model number GTWN7450H1WW
Hi Darryl, thank you for your question. Most of the time when customers have this issue the two parts to check would be your lid bezel: PS8690650, and the lid lock itself: PS11701133. Good luck with your repair.
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Scott
February 26, 2020
Washer makes a clunk sound every couple of seconds when agitating. After opening the lid, the tub makes a ratcheting-like noise when turned by hand.
For model number GTWN7450H1WW
Hi Scott,
Thank you for your question. If you are hearing a clunking sound when the washer is agitating, check to see if the wash load is unbalanced. If it is, redistribute the clothes in the tub. You could also have a worn tub bearing or there could be an issue with a damaged shock absorber. You will need to check these parts to see what is causing the issue. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Mark
December 12, 2019
Why might it be making a grinding noise?
For model number GTWN7450H1WW
Hello Mark, thank you for your question. This is likely a failing Drain Pump Assembly. The replacement for your model is part number PS8757171. Good luck with your repair!
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Kara
January 14, 2020
My washer makes a loud grinding noise during agitation. The spin cycle works fine. Any ideas?
For model number GTWN7450H1WW
Hello Kara and thank you for writing.
The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the washer is noisy during the spin cycle or is leaking from the bottom of the tub near the transmission, the tub seal PS8757008 is likely defective. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
I need a power button assembly. Is that available by itself, or do I have to buy the entire front panel?
For model number GTWN7450H1WW
Hello Bob, thank you for a very interesting question. Power button assembly is not sold separately. You will need to replace the backsplash body assembly, part number PS8757264. If the power button is not working, you will need to replace the control board, part number PS10059539. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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This procedure was completely different from any other Tub Seal I've done and in my opinion needs 2 people. The first thing to note is that this seal must be removed from the bottom of the outer tub. Also, the top of this machine does not hinge in back. The typical clips are in front, but the back has 2 screws that must be removed. Since the wiring was too involved to completely separate the top from the base, I had to improvise a stand to hold the top while the rest of the process was completed - keep slack on all remaining connected wires. The motor, clutch and bearing plate must be removed from the bottom in order to access the Tub Seal. Below are the steps I did to complete the process: - Remove Control Panel Cover (rear) - Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well) - Remove Pressure Switch - Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top - Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires. - Remove Tub Cover - Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub. - Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact) - Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall) - Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal. - Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable - Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires. - Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator) - Remove Clutch and wires - Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate - Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub - Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care) - Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap) - Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires. - During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
